Cork V Screwcap

I recall how horrified I was when alerted to the advent of screwcaps (Stelvin capsules) . Having worked in hospitality in four countries on three continents, I had long embraced the action of pulling a cork. Indeed, at Caesar's Palace opening a bottle of the famed '82 Bordeaux was a ceremonial experience. A trolley, adorned with a candle for checking sediment, was wheeled to the diners table. The bottle was duly presented, then the waiter's knife (corkscrew) was put to work with grace and poise. What a pleasure it was.

Cork stoppers have been a part of winemaking since the early 18th century, when cork trees were first identified on Madeira, and Portugal. French winemakers discovered the worth of cork. They realized that the slow maturing Medoc wines needed an almost "controlled" method of breathing in order to reach full maturity. Cork, being a porous product, allowed the wine that breathing.

Why screwcaps, then?

Well, for two reasons. Firstly, with the explosion of wine production worldwide the premium cork tree forests of Madeira and Portugal became depleted. Because cork trees take 80-85 years to reach maturity, cork was sought in other areas. It was found on Sardinia. Alas, the trees were youthful, and the cork of poor quality. It was not long before wines using this cork were exhibiting a negative, 'corked' nose and taste. What to do? Find an alternative stopper was the cry.

This brings us to the second reason, as this timing coincided with the 1970's explosion of wine technology. The most substantial of wines, while being able to live twenty, thirty years and more, no longer required twenty years to reach drinkability. Still, the screwcap was a hard acceptance for us purists. It took time to become accustomed, but I am happy to admit I am converted. The final nail in my coffin of reluctance was when I awarded the only southern hemisphere Pinot Noir 100 points, in my 21 years of judging for the UIO. The wine, Escarpment 2013 Kupe, was under screw cap.

The screw cap is here to stay, and so say all of us.